Kitesurfing Equipment | Tantrum Kitesurf

Posted on September 4, 2011March 12, 2016 by Tantrum — Leave a comment

Should You Wear A Board Leash?

Kitesurfing Equipment - Kite Board Leash

Whether to use a board leash or not is something that every aspiring kitesurfer asks at some point. Here I lay out the arguments for and against so you can make up your own mind.

Board leashes were designed to prevent you from losing your board. As a beginner you will be coming off your board and crashing your kite lots. Having a board leash on gives you one less thing to worry about while your struggling to re launch your kite as you don’t have be concerned that your board is disappearing as you go. Leashes however, have several spin off advantages which can be even ore useful to the aspiring kitesurfer than the use for which they were originally intended.

The main advantage to wearing a board leash for the beginner is that while your practicing to board start or enjoying your first runs on the board you won’t have to spend time chasing your board around every time you fall off or let go of it. This can lead to you having much more time to actually practice your board starts/riding skills as opposed to your body dragging skills. This simple piece of equipment can decrease your learning time by hours even days if the water state is pretty rough or the local conditions not ideal.

Added to this is the fact that by using a board you have 2 hands free at all times to control the kite. This can be a huge advantage if you’re trying to drag out through big waves or if you’re still not 100% confident on the kite.

Of course it could be said that if you are a stage where you are struggling to either recover your board all the time by body dragging or you can’t get out through the waves while flying the kite one handed you shouldn’t be practicing with a board but should be working on these skills instead. However humans being what we are…people tend to fixate on getting on the board and will tend to push ahead to master these skills first, coming back to polish the other skills later in their kitesurfing careers. Thats not to say I’m recommending doing that, however I simply know that’s how human psychology works.

When it comes to the disadvantages of using board leashes the consequences are slightly more scary. Riding with a board attached to you is not dissimilar to being chased by a guided missile. If you come off the board at any speed, tension can stack in the line and when the leash reaches it’s elastic limit there is only one way it’s going…straight back at you. This can lead to some very nasty accidents and it for this reason that if you are going to use a board leash you should also have a helmet and impact vest/buoyancy aid to protect your vital parts.

The leash can also be a hindrance when exiting the water. If you dally in the shallows the board has a tendency to get picked up by the waves as they ebb off the beach. The next wave to arrives then picks up the board and slams it into your heels/shins/other tender bits! When exiting the water with a leash in waves do it fast or unattached the board before you try.

The same applies when you have a leash in bigger waves, if the board gets in front of you then the next passing wave can pick the board up and slam it into you.

Of course these things can also happen even if you don’t have a leash but the leash keeps the board closer to you and so increases the likelihood of something like this occurring.

The leash can also get wrapped around either you or your bar and lines, with the latter being particularly serious as this effectively strangles your control of the kite and inevitably send the kite into a death roil with you helpless on the end of it.

Coming off the board at speed with a leash normally results in the leash attachment line breaking so that the board isn’t damaged however if this line is too string or doesn’t break for some reason this can result in damage to the board as in these cases something has to give, I’ve seen huge chunks literally torn out of boards because of this.

The other issue attached to wearing leashes is more practical in nature. By becoming dependent on a leash you reduce the time you’re practicing upwind body dragging. This is an essential skill which needs to be mastered early if you are to progress to becoming an independent kitesurfer, believe me I spent a year learning this particular skill and the hours of time I wasted and the number of boards I lost because of my stubborn refusal to learn cost me more than I like to think.

Something I can wholeheartedly recommend is wearing one of the dog leash style board leashes. These are a bit like a tape measure and extend out to about 30 meters. Now I don’t recommend kiting with these attached to the board but they can be useful if your kite comes down and you can’t relaunch it. With one of these, if you’re quick you can leash on your board push it well away from and then use 2 hands to get the kite back in to a relaunch position. Then pull the board back to you and un attach the leash before relaunching the kite.

This all sounds like a very negative assessment of board leashes…well it is, just do a quick google search of kitesurf board leash injuries and you’ll see why.

Posted on July 15, 2011November 29, 2012 by Tantrum — Leave a comment

Which Kitesurfing Board Should I Buy First?

Which Kitesurfing Board is right for you?

A question I get asked all the time is which board should I buy first? I’ve put together the following article to try to help some of you guys out and hopefully give you some insight as to what you should be looking for.

The most important thing to look for as a beginner when buying a board is the size. By size I mean the length and width of the board. Generally speaking the larger the board the easier it will be to learn on as it offers several advantages to the beginner kitesurfer. The most important of these advantages is buoyancy. Because of its larger surface area a larger board has a great deal more buoyancy than a smaller board. This makes it easier for the rider to stay on the plane (riding above the water) but also means that if the wind dies or the power from the kite drops (possibly due to a beginners under developed kite handling skills) the board will stay on top of the water and you, the rider, will not experience that unpleasant but wonderfully named “tea bagging” sensation. The increased buoyancy also means that the rider does not need as much power through the kite to be able to ride which means that the beginner can take out a smaller kite than they other wise might have to. At the early stages this really helps to grow your confidence and improve your kite skills.

The main disadvantages associated with a large board are mainly to do with feel, a large board feels…well, large! It is unresponsive and doesn’t feel very dynamic, it has a habit of getting caught in chop and at high speeds can become unstable as it bounces over the chop (as opposed to slicing through it). When you jump and start doing ariel moves you will really notice the added weight and while good for your abs isn’t necessarily good for your technique. Due to these reasons most people will quickly look to buy a smaller board as they become better riders.

This brings us to the main issue with buying a large board…you will, relatively quickly, out grow it. How quickly depends on how much practice you get, but I would suggest as soon as you start going airborne you’ll want to look for something smaller. People take many different approaches to this. Some people buy a large board for learning on and then upgrade to a smaller board when they are ready. The larger board can then be sold or used as a light wind board. Due to the buoyancy mentioned earlier a large board needs less wind to get going and so will get you up and riding on days when it’s simply not possible on a small board. Many people however simply opt to buy an intermediate board straight away and deal with it in the early stages knowing that it will last them years once they can handle it. I would mention however that an often unspoken advantage of owning 2 boards with vastly different buoyancy is that it can reduce the amount you need to spend on kites (which are typically more expensive and easier to break) by increasing the wind range of your current quiver. Lets say you own 2 kites an 8 and a 12 m and 1 135cm board. Your wind range with both kites and the board might be from 14 to 28 kts (depending on your size and ability) If you bought a large 150 cm board the upper end of the wind range might go up to 33 kts meaning that you get out more days, it may also mean than you can change your kite sizes to a 7m and a 13m because you have increased the wind range of both kites and so now go out in anything from 12 to 35 kts. (these numbers have just been plucked from my head to illustrate the point and have no actual basis in reality before anyone comments!) If you were wanting to cover this wind range using just your 135 cm board you would probably need to buy another kite somewhere in the 10m mark. Kites cost a lot more than boards and lose their value much more quickly.

Whether you decide to do this or not will depend very much on your own personal style and preference. Some people love to have the exact right kite up for any given day, if this is you I’d plumb for the 3 kite quiver option, if you’re not so fussy then having 2 kites and 2 boards can get you out just as often for a lot less cash.

So how big is big enough for the beginner kitesurfer. I would generally say a big board is something anywhere between 140 cm up to 160 cm. Any bigger than this and you might as well ride a canoe…anything smaller and you’re getting in to small board territory. The bigger and heavier you are the larger the board you’ll want within this range. So for example for a small girl a large board would be a 140, whereas for a 6’4″ bodybuilding bloke a 160 would probably be nearer the mark. There is no perfect size and it’ll vary for everyone so don’t worry over whether you should buy a 145 or a 146 cm board, just get out there. After a session or two the experience you’ve gained will more than compensate for the cm’s of difference.

Finally I should mention a few other things which can make your experience as a beginner all the more pleasant. Fins have a hinge impact on the boards performance…if you don’t believe me just try riding your board without any and feel the difference for yourself. Larger fins will generally give you a more stable feel and drive you upwind harder. For these reasons I always recommend to go for fins that are at least 5 cm. Again once your comfortable have a play around with the fin size it’s a real fun way to change your riding style without spending too much money.

Pads and straps simply need to fit and be comfortable. They should be tight enough that you’re board is not going to fly off while you’re riding but loose enough that you can kick the board off if you have one of those oh s**t moments. Most important is that they are comfy, with no sharp edges or bits that will rub at your tender tootsies.

Last but not least is the handle, as a beginner make sure you get a board with a handle. It really does make the whole experience of getting the board on your feet, or even picking the board up from the beach much easier.

Hopefully that makes things a bit clearer for you but if you’ve got any questions let me know in the comments and I’ll get back to you asap.

Posted on June 16, 2011November 29, 2012 by Tantrum — Leave a comment

Airush DNA 2011 Kitesurfing Kite Review

The Airush DNA comes in 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12m sizes. Designed primarily as a school/beginner kite it has a delta-hybrid design with a full flag-out safety system. It is based on the Airush Lithium kite but is built to be stronger and easier to handle for the beginner. We first got our hands on one of these about a month ago and have been using them ourselves and in the school for teaching ever since.

When you unroll the kite the first thing you will notice is that it is simple. The bag is functional (and not much more) the kite has no 1 pump system, the graphics are again functional but uninspiring. First impressions of this kite are not great. That said however the kite looks well put together and it was due to the legends of its tough design that we were attracted to them in the first place. Its still too early in the season to say how they will stand up but if the reports from last years model hold true we hope to be impressed.

Put the kite in the air and everything changes. The kite performs amazingly in all conditions, and I mean all! We’ve had this kite out in horrendously gusty conditions here in Tarifa where the wind is blowing from 5 kts up to 30 kts and it it still possible to teach. More impressively in really light winds where there are huge holes in the wind the kite will cope with the lulls much better than anything I have ever seen before staying in flight for an age with next to no wind before it starts to drop. Compared to the kites we’ve taught on in the past and by looking at the other kites on the beach I can honestly say it seems to perform the best across the widest range of conditions.

We (and the other schools teaching on DNA’s) are regularly the schools with the first kite up as the wind builds and last kite down when it dies. The kite seems almost impossible to back or front stall, simply powering up as you pull the bar in or dropping back in the window if it overshoots the window. The kite keeps its power and distance in the turns and even when you’re really flinging it around will keep tension in the lines. It relaunches effortlessly even in light winds. All this combines to give us more teaching time and a better advancement rate with our clients than we’ve ever had in the past.

More than simply a school kite however I have to say I really love riding this kite, sure it’s not the most dynamic kite in the world but it just makes kiting hassle free. Mess up a jump and land with the kite upwind, the kite simply moves back into position over your head. Struggling in light winds? Just pull the bar in and instead of that awful back stall sensation the kite simply shifts back slightly in the window and then continues to power up. The kite seems to relaunch using the force and is almost effortless…time after time. Again this isn’t a kite that will have the pro’s raving but as a functional, easy to use, 1st time kite I do not believe this kite can be beaten by anything I’ve ever ridden or taught on.

There are of course some down sides. The kites not the most beautiful and you’re mates certainly wont be jealous the first time you pull it out of its bag! The graphics are simple and the colours are not the most eye catching. It is not blisteringly fast and if your after a radical ride this probably isn’t the kite for you. I can’t imagine Ruben Lenton wanting to fly a kite like this for very long as it simply doesn’t feel like it’s built for performance.

In short the DNA’s simplicity is it’s greatest strength. It is possibly the best beginner/school kite on the market but is also great for intermediates who simply want hassle free kiting. With its amazingly stable flight and relaunch characteristics it’ll keep you kiting in conditions that before you wouldn’t have thought possible or wanted to brave. That said if you’re looking for a radical kite to perfect your f-16’s on, this maybe isn’t the kite for you.

Update after 1 Year’s Use In The Kite School

Although a superb kite to teach on we won’t be buying the DNA’s next year for our school as we simply found them too fragile for the kind of rough treatment they get whilst being used in our kite school. I still love the kites to fly, but they seem to have just too many weak points, many caused by over reinforcement of certain areas, ie. the ‘pads along the trailing edge. This leads to the material around the reinforcement being put under too much pressure and consequently breaking under the strain.

Tried the Airush DNA and want to let us know what you think? Let us know in the comments below…

Posted on March 15, 2011March 31, 2018 by Tantrum — 5 Comments

How To Care For Your Kitesurfing Kite And Make It Last Twice As Long

How do you make sure your expensive new kitesurfing kite doesn’t fall apart after 5 sessions? By following these few simple guidelines you can increase the lifetime of your kite and get so much more value for your money.

Ironically enough the 3 main things you need to avoid with your kite are sun, wind and sand!

Now I know that avoiding the last 2 of those is pretty much impossible, unless you live in the UK in which case avoiding the sun is very easy!

Why Kites Aren’t Sun Worshippers

UV from the sun will damage the kite as it damages most materials. If you live in a warm climate this is however pretty much unavoidable. In a cruel twist of irony the wind will also damage the kite. This is especially true when the kite is left sat on the beach flapping in the wind.

Ever seen a flag that’s been flying too long, all frayed at the end?

That’s exactly what the winds doing to your kite. The best way to avoid both the wind and the sun is to put the kite back in the bag if you intend to leave it on the beach for any length of time.

The Biggest Kite Killer

The biggest kite killer however is sand. Sand will work its way into and rub against the material and the stitching of your kite, weakening both and in time leading to tears and breakages. The best way to avoid this is to clean your kite thoroughly as you put it away, brushing all the sand off the kite as you pack it down.

Wet Kite?

If the kite is wet or damp when you put it away it’s not always possible to get all (or indeed any!) of the sand off, in this case the kite should be cleaned at the first opportunity.

Another real kite killer is the heat. When kites are left in a car or in a warm place in the sun the glue that holds the valves onto the bladders will often melt.

Leaving you with small holes where the valve has come unattached from the bladder and through which air can escape. Meaning that the next time you come to inflate your kite you find it mysteriously has a very slow puncture which is very difficult to locate. Avoid this by storing the kite in a cool dry place.

The Debate Rattles On

There is a lot of debate about as to whether you should clean your kite in freshwater once you’ve finished a session on the sea. Some people believe you should thoroughly wash your kite down in fresh water as this removes the salt which can have a similar effect to sand.

Others suggest that the salt actually preserves the kite and stops it from rotting and gathering mould especially if you are planning to leave the kite in storage for a long time, ie. over the winter. I personally don’t rinse my kites down after use and while I use this excuse if I’m honest with myself it’s probably just laziness!!

Posted on March 13, 2011November 29, 2012 by Tantrum — 4 Comments

What Difference Do Kitesurfing Fins Make?

Today I want to talk about the difference that fins make to your board and to your riding. Fins come in many shapes and sizes and most often you simply use whichever size comes with the board when you buy it. This fin will generally be fine for most kinds of riding however you can drastically alter the boards performance by changing the type or the size of the fins you are using.

The way to spot the effect that fins have on your riding is to simply remove the fins from the board. Try riding the board now and you’ll notice the board handles very differently. Your back leg will feel as though its constantly about to slip away from you and the board will release from the water almost effortlessly, enabling you to do surface 180’s almost without thinking.

Fins generally effect 3 areas of board performance, these are grip in the turn, ‘slide’ and upwind ability.

The area where you’ll notice the greatest difference by changing your fins is the grip in the turn. Try a hard carve turn without a fin or with a very small fin and you’ll notice that as you exit the turn and try to apply power in the new direction unless you’re very careful the board will simply “spin out,” you’ll lose all grip in the water and your back leg will fly away from you. This is because the fin is not providing the grip necessary to channel that sudden increase of power as you set off in a new direction and the board literally starts to skim across the surface of the water. Because the board will slip across the surface of the water much more easily with smaller fins, if you’re attempting to go from heel side to toe side you can do it almost effortlessly on a board with no or small fins whilst on a board with big fins you’ll generally have to jump the board out of the water and then spin it whilst your airborne.

The final area where you’ll notice differences between different sized fins is in the up-wind ability of the board. Larger fins, because they have more surface area and thus more grip in the water, generally provide greater up wind performance than a small fin. A larger fin will also produce more lift. A fin actually produces lift just like the wing of an airplane or your kite, which also improves the upwind performance and causes a huge amount of other effects which delves deep into the realm of hydro-dynamics, which is a little beyond the scope of this email, however if you do want to know more leave a comment and I’ll fill you in all on all the geeky details!